- Massive, laminated or laminated
- Sound sublayer
- Laying a laminate parquet
- What is laminated?
- 1 Laying the underlayment
- Info +
- 2 Placing the blades
- 3 Complex cuts
- 4 Setting up finishes
Ideal for renovation, the installation of a parquet laminated on an existing tile guarantees both speed and ease of installation. At the end, a more modern and warm ground!
Cost: about 70 € / m2 (oak 1st choice, wear layer 4 mm, including plastic fi lm, underlay and glue)
Time: 2 days approximately (23 m2)
Equipment: square, meter, pencil, cutter, scissors, mallet, hammer, blade driver, wedge martyr, plastic bevel wedges, drill, drills, jigsaw, handsaw...
The porcelain tiles laid in the living room of this house no longer suited the taste of the owners. So they decided to cover it with floorboards, to bring more modernity to the room and the warm touch of wood.
Massive, laminated or laminated
Parquet solid wood, laminate or laminated, the choice depends on several criteria. Solid wood should be nailed to joists. The laminate floor is composed of a wood imitation decoration protected by a resin and glued on a support-core. It can not be sanded. The laminated parquet chosen here ("floating" installation) has a 4 mm solid wood wear layer.
To combat possible rising damp, the tiles are covered with a polyane (polyethylene) on which is laid a resilient rubberized cork underlay designed to absorb noise and compensate for small irregularities in the soil. Sub-layers are available in rolls or panels: agglomerated polyurethane foam, resinous wood fiber board, wood fiber, etc., and lay perpendicular to the boards.
Laying a laminate parquet
The wood expands as a function of temperature and hygrometry. This type of floor must be separated from the walls by providing a space between the wall and the coating called "expansion joint" (8 mm minimum). It is advisable to store the blades in the room 48 hours before the work. To determine the number of blades required, it is recommended to increase the surface of the room to be covered by 5%. Here, the English pose limits losses by reusing the fall of one row of blades to start the next. Finally, it is better to mix the packages to harmonize hue and veining
What is laminated?
It consists of three layers of wood glued to each other. It has a small thickness of 8 to 16 mm and can be nailed, glued to the ground or installed in fl oating pose. On the top, the facing layer is made of noble wood whose thickness varies from 2.5 mm minimum to 6 or 7 mm maximum. This upper layer is usually coated with an oiled, waxed, whitewashed finish... Unlike traditional parquet, they make it possible to develop the room without having to apply a fi nishing layer. Thicker by about 1 cm, the intermediate layer (HDF, chipboard, plywood or blockboard) gives the parquet its rigidity. As for the underside called counter-facing, apart from its role of support to the two upper layers, it ensures a good attitude of the assembly.
1 Laying the underlayment
After cleaning the floor, unroll a polyane on the tiles with a slight rise to the periphery of the walls.
Well adjust it in the angles.
Overlay the edges with a 20 cm overlap and assemble them with a wide band of construction adhesive
Lay and cut one after another the strips of the underlay (here made of cork and rubber).
They must be positioned perpendicular to the floorboards.
If the floor is on a slab above a crawl space, a garage, a cellar..., it should be proceeded with its thermal insulation:
- On the underside with rigid insulation boards made of extruded polystyrene or wood fiber
- From above with the same panels on which a patching (or a thin screed) is poured to receive sound insulation and parquet.
2 Placing the blades
Position the first row of blades (oriented in the direction of light) along the plinth, tongue towards you.
Place shims (8 mm peripheral seal).
After tracing with a square, saw the blades with a fine-toothed hand saw or with a jigsaw or radial saw.
Use the fall from the last row of the first row to start the second row.
Glue (vinyl glue) the longitudinal and transverse grooves.
Assemble the planks, check the regularity of the joints and then fit the planks thoroughly, using a wedge martyr and a mallet.
Remove excess glue from the cloth.
After sawing the end blade taking into account the 8 mm seal, glue its groove and the junction with the previous blade, then fit them with a blade.
Lay the wedges when the last blade is permanently installed. Superimposed, they adjust the peripheral clearance of 8 mm and lock in position thanks to notches.
3 Complex cuts
If you want to make special cuts (inside angle, outgoing angle, pipes...), first make a cardboard template and then refer to the blade to cut.
To make a precise cut, first drill with a hole saw, then use a jigsaw to take the end of the blade that will be placed behind the pipes.
The right toolsThe needle protector ensures faithful traces.
4 Setting up finishes
Place a bead of caulk-adhesive on the back of baseboards and apply them to the existing ones, applying a brief pressure.
Avoid any contact of the glue with the lower edge that would adhere to the blades.
Apply pressure while holding the sealant.
A march separates the rooms.
Cut a blade to the size of the riser and fix it in the raised with wedges.
Cut out the last blade that forms the step nose and nest it in the previous blade.
Glue the underside of the blade with mastic glue to adhere to the masonry step.
Beforehand, place a bead of wood glue on the top edge of the riser.
The skirting boards fixed, stick a quarter-round or a rounded batten to the rasp to make the connection with the jamb.
Paint it then like the plinth.
Treat the blades by applying a wood floor oil (Blanchon, Syntilor, V33...) in two layers minimum.
Repeat this treatment regularly every 2 to 4 years.
Which product to choose?
• The most expensive The solid parquet consists of blades manufactured in a piece of rough wood usually 2 cm thick. It is durable and receives the finish you want (tinted, stained, oiled, varnished, vitrified). It is sanded as many times as you want to renovate (no more than 1 mm).
• The cheapest The laminate is not wood. Its siding is a printed decorative sheet covered with a resin-based protection. Very economical, this material is easy to maintain. It is resistant to punching, burns, chemicals, but little scratch. To renovate it, damaged blades are replaced.
• Floorboards (L. 190 x W.19 cm, thickness 15 mm, wear layer in solid oak thickness 4 mm)
• Solid oak floorboards, ep. 15 mm, for doorways
• Polyane film ep. 0.2 mm • Rubber cork underlay (here in roll of 15 x 1 m)
• Pre-painted skirting in medium (here 8 cm)
• Vinyl adhesive
• Putty-adhesive cartridges
• Acrylic sealant cartridge (optional)