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Dressing a bathtub

There are many reasons to rearrange your bathroom; among these, the replacement of the bathtub. Its appearance has a great influence on that of the room because it is the largest sanitary appliance. Today, most bathtubs are designed in such a way that they need to be recessed or dressed. But it is essential to provide a trap door. Gypsum tile is the basic material most often used for this small construction site which also includes the installation of decorative tiling.

Necessary material

  • Bubble level
  • Knife to coat
  • Plaster Tile Saw
  • Trowel
  • Steel tip
  • pliers
  • Notched spatula
  • Plasterboard
  • U-shaped sole
  • Entrance door with frame
  • White cement mortar
  • Glue for tiles (faience or sandstone)

Steps

  1. Laying drywall
  2. Laying tiles

Laying drywall

Glue the plaster tiles

Glue the plaster tiles

1. After positioning with the level and wedging the unit against the walls, attach a U-shaped profile to the floor directly above the edges of the tub. This profile, preferably in aluminum (unalterable), acts as insulator and guide in the lower part for the plaster tiles forming the wall of the cladding. Saw them leaving enough clearance between their top and the tub. Drag them into the profile. The tiles fit together by embedding the tenon profile of one in the mortise profile of the next. Moderately load the profiles of a special drywall mortar that will leave you more open time than a plaster joint, which is more difficult to grasp and work.

Embed the plaster tiles in the guide sole

Embed the plaster tiles in the guide sole

2. The interlocking of the profiles must be done by embedding the lower parts of the tiles in the guide sole. This has the advantage of avoiding that the whole, not fixed at the top, does not rock on its base. Proceed as far as the angle of the bathtub, unless you decide, because of the dimensions taken, to start the dressing of the small side, from this plumb.

Laying a plaster tile

Laying a plaster tile

3. In this case, take into account the thickness of the plaster tile on the short side, placed in apparent edge to determine the width of the last tile of the large side. Before starting the dressing of the small side, locate the positioning of the frame of the inspection hatch according to the dimensions of the finishing tiling. The faience coverings, which have standard sizes, will have to come just at the edge of this frame, without cutting, so as not to break the harmony of the panel. As the dimensions of the access hatches that are found in the trade, also correspond to an integer number of tiles, it is enough for you to cut the tiles of plaster so as to clear the surface corresponding to the outer frame of the trapdoor of visit.

Top with the mortar between the top of the plaster tiles and the edge of the bathtub

Top with the mortar between the top of the plaster tiles and the edge of the bathtub

4. Top with the mortar, the space left between the top of the plaster tiles and the edge of the bathtub. Take special care of the corner part, it is the most fragile. Fill the void with the trowel to the unglazed face of the bathtub (under the edge). Smooth the joint as close as possible to the surface of the facade elements. The enameled rim should extend slightly above this work, and cover the edge of the last row of tiles.

Seal the support frame on peripheral gypsum tiles

Seal the support frame on peripheral gypsum tiles

5. Secure the entire inspection hatch in the reservation made here in front of the ducts. At first, leave the moving part in the frame. Block it then, after removing the hatch, seal with the mortar, the frame-support on the peripheral plaster tiles.

Recap and recover the part of the visible frame

Recap and recover the part of the visible frame

6. Re-cover and cover the part of the visible frame with the same binder, after refitting the hatch. Careful capping should be flush with the metal surface of the moving panel.

Laying tiles

Spread the glue on the metal panel

Spread the glue on the metal panel

1. Now proceed to laying the tiles that will dress the two panels of the bath starting with the trap door. Spread the tile glue on the moving metal panel, using a notched spatula. Spread her regularly. Make it penetrate the cells to obtain a good adhesion. The notches of the spatula properly distribute the glue and give it a surface quality promoting a solid attachment of the faience.

Arrange the tiles on the metal panel

Arrange the tiles on the metal panel

2. Arrange the number of tiles needed to completely cover the metal panel. As this is provided by the manufacturer for a precise amount of elements, it avoids the size of tiles. Evenly distribute the thickness of the joints between each glued element by aligning with the sides of the inspection hatch. Using a hammer handle, apply tiles to the glue bed by tapping lightly.

Glue the front of the hatch

Glue the front of the hatch

3. Before spreading the glue on the carcass of the cladding, remove asperities and excess binder to obtain a flat surface, easy to tile. Spread the glue with the spatula as you did for the hatch. Cover the facade to the fixed metal frame of the mobile panel. If the flooring is not yet made around the cladding, do it in the first place so that it comes up against the foot of the plaster tiles, against the metal profile.

Glue the tiles

Glue the tiles

4. Apply the entire tiles to the glue-coated facade. A good calculation of the position of the hatch improves the final appearance of the coating and reduces the cuts of tiles. For cuts, use a steel tip and a pincer. Scribe, on the spot, the faience according to the cut to make; break the tile following this line. Place each element in its place on the side of the visit. Respect a constant width of joints even between the bathtub and the last row of tiles.

Glue all the length of the bathtub

Glue all the length of the bathtub

5. Equalize the surface to be covered to the corner, then spread the glue. Some manufacturers offer quarter-round tiles matching and posing at an angle. They then rely on the songs of the last tiles on each side. So the dressing is more neat. Of course, they must be purchased at the same time as the others.

Laying tiles

Laying tiles

6. Start laying tiles from the base and the edge of the volume. Cover the edge of the tiles with the first facade and align the joints. Plate each tile with the hammer handle. Once the gluing is complete, allow to dry for 1 to 2 hours before passing a finishing slip. Prepare it obviously a little thicker than for a floor tile.

On the same topic

  • Questions answers
    • The renovation of a bathtub in 5 questions
    • What coating around a bathtub?
    • How to glue mosaic glass paste in a sink?
    • How to renovate the coating of a bathroom?
    • Rotting tub apron
  • DIY tips
    • Lay tile on the cladding of a bathtub
    • Moldy joints around a sink or bathtub
    • How to install a bathtub?
    • Tips and steps to renovate a bathtub
    • How to maintain an old tile?
    • How to cut and drill tiles?
    • How to fix a bath screen?
    • Tile of a bathroom
    • Laying a bathtub, a bidet and a sink
    • Replacement of a tile tile
    • Dressing a bathtub
    • Marble pads
    • Cutting and preparation of tiles
  • Forum
    • bathroom on wooden floor
    • tile bathtub apron

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